Historians stay up at night, thinking about things. I spent several nights last week thinking about Mark Twain, or as we called him in Elmira, Samuel Clemens.
Sam, his wife Olivia (Livy), and his family spent 20 summers at Quarry Farm, just up East Hill. This began in 1871 and ended in 1903, although I doubt he traversed the hill in the later years.
I got to thinking what his wife might have sent him to the store to get. Butter, eggs, milk or cereal? No, I decided that Quarry Farm was a working farm, so they had their milk and butter, as did every other farm. It probably had its chickens, so no need to go out for more eggs. Not to mention they had an excellent cook, Katy Leary, and she probably had charge of the groceries or at least ordering the groceries. And they were probably delivered, so Sam really wouldn’t have had to pick up any food items.
So I thought, what would Sam want from the hardware store? Glass paper, screws, nails? No, Quarry Farm already had a handyman, John Lewis, and would probably buy everything the farm wanted.
Michelle Cotton, formerly a member of the Chemung County Historical Society, wrote an e-book called “Mark Twain’s Elmira” that recalled all of Elmira’s outlets and locations in Sam’s day. But would he have gone to all those places? I don’t think so, and I don’t think I have an explanation for why I’m going downtown. He’s traveled all over the world and I don’t think he bought his clothes here. Maybe he bought paper, pens and pencils. So probably yes to a workplace fountain store. He liked cigars, so tobacco.
We know Sam enjoyed a casual cocktail after work. It’s true. And he enjoyed the company of others, especially those at Klapproth Tavern on Lake Street. Construction is still there in my childhood.
Then I realized how Sam would have come to Klapproth from Quarry Farm. Google Maps indicates that this is a distance of 2.4 miles and a 48-minute walk depending on the address you have assigned me. But is that the path you took? Would you have come to my street?
Therefore, Sam would probably have left Quarry Farm in his white linen suit and leather-soled shoes, and would have walked down the hill past the Gleason Watercure on the right and Thomas K. Beecher’s space on the left. Remember, it’s a steep hill where it would go. Quarry Farm has an elevation of 1,480 feet; The centre of Elmira is 250 yards away. Therefore, Sam would go down and climb 624 feet on a circular journey, wearing leather shoes with slippery soles. And the climbing component after having a drink or two.
At the back of the hill, would you have zigzagged and waved through the east side streets as instructed via Google Maps? Or did you turn left on Tuttle Avenue, then right on East Church Street and get here directly? Or did he stay on the lake street junction channel? I think it would probably have sticked to the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western tracks, but this railroad didn’t reach Elmira until after Sam’s time.
Klapproth Tavern was located at 162 Lake St., the site of the current Five Star Bank. It was thought that the tavern was a lovely place for gentlemen; even the Reverend Thomas K. Beecher came by a pint. Klapproth also sells tobacco products, making it a two-in-one prevention for Sam.
Then I think of Sam going home. Did it go back 2.4 miles, adding a steep climb after a drink or two? Or did a great Samaritan with a buggy take him at least halfway home? We’ll never know.
Klapproth burned down in a chimney in February 1968. Some artifacts owned by the Mark Twain Study Center at Elmira College.
Sam Clemens arrived in Elmira by smart in April 1910. He is buried with his circle of relatives at Woodlawn Cemetery.
Diane Janowski is the historian of the city of Elmira. Your column is published monthly.