As you’d expect from one of our most illustrious alumni, [Caleb Kraft] is quite an artistic man. Over the years, he’s created surely phenomenal projects: CNC routers, 3D printers, laser cutters, and everything else interesting. toys that the trendy hacker has access to. But for his new task, a full celebration of the moon, he challenged himself to go low-tech. The Moon is anything that anyone on Earth can practice and enjoy, so it seemed fitting that this task be made as available as possible to others.
[Caleb] started this project by looking for high-resolution images of the Moon, which was easy enough. He was even able to find sign shops that were more than happy to print a giant version for him. Unfortunately, the prices he was quoted were equally gargantuan. To really be something that anyone could do, this project needed to not only be easy, but as affordable as possible. But where do you get a giant picture of the Moon for cheap?
He eventually found a source for Moon shower curtains (we told you he was creative), which fit the bill perfectly. [Caleb] says they aren’t nearly as detailed as the original images he found, but unless you’ve got your face pressed up against it you’ll never notice anyway. To make the round frame, he used PEX tubing from the hardware store and simply stapled the curtain directly to the soft plastic. The hardest part of the whole project is arguably getting the curtain flat and taut on the PEX ring.
Technically, you can stop now and have a pretty modern piece of art to hang on your wall, however [Caleb] took the concept a step further and placed a strip of RGB LEDs along the inside of the ring. The shower curtain The curtain does a pretty decent job of diffusing the light from the LEDs to make it look pretty good; In fact, there is room for improvement if necessary to achieve a more uniform effect across the entire surface. While you’re at it, you can also load additional electronics so that the heating adjusts to the existing phase of the real Moon.
On the other hand, if you’re willing to settle for a very stripped-down edition of Luna and don’t mind employing those high-level hacking teams that [Caleb] should avoid for the sake of humanity, we have a task for you might be interested in.
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Most readers of The-Technology are no doubt familiar with the Faraday cage, at least by name, and almost everyone has one: If you’ve ever seen a bag of popcorn slowly spin inside the waves of a microphone, you’ve seen Michael Faraday’s 1836 invention in action. However, despite being a well-known device, the average hacker still doesn’t have one in their arsenal. But why?
It may be that there is a certain mystique about Faraday cages, the assumption that their structure requires techniques or materials outside the realm of the home hacker. While it’s true that building an optimal Faraday cage for a given frequency comes from math and attention to detail, establishing an undeniable style for general purposes of use and experimentation is quick and easy.
As part of a minimalist hacking exercise, I recently built a basic Faraday cage using fabric from Home Depot, and I thought it would be interesting to not only describe its construction, but also give some ideas on how it can be put into practice in the world. home. laboratory. Although not the best specimen, it obviously works and required nothing that cannot be received locally, almost anywhere in the world.
We love shop made CNC mills, so when [joekutz] tipped us off about the desktop sized CNC he just completed, we had to take a look. Each axis slides around on ball bearing drawer slides, and the machine itself is constructed with MDF and aluminum. And the results it produces are fantastic.
The machine’s work area weighs in at 160*160mm with a height of 25mm. Its the table is moved around with a pair of NEMA17 motors and M8 stainless steel threaded rods. Motor control is done with a pair of Arduino’s but they also do double duty with one processing G-code while the other handles the keypad and LCD interface.
The company is a Proxxon rotary tool that can reach up to 2000 RPM, and while [joekutz] hasn’t tested it on soft metals like brass or aluminum, it has effectively cut and etched wood, plastics, and copper-coated PCBs.
Don’t check in with us after the break to watch some YouTube videos. [Joe] has released 3 of the five planned series that are not similar to the task page above. To see this device in action and take a look at how it works. works
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Passionate about hydrolysis devices? Me too. Here’s an interesting how-to that might convince you to create one!It is a very undeniable HHO torch that is undeniable for building plumbing parts at the hardware store.
The entire structure uses almost every popular part available, with the exception of the nozzle assembly. However, this is an undeniable amendment, underneath the copper tube finish is a brass M6 nut that has been welded into position, allowing you to reposition the MIG soldering tips at any time.
[Peter] also has a handy trick that allows him to reduce the length of the MIG soldering tip hole: just insert a ball bearing into it. Seriously, check out the Instructable and see for yourself. This allows you to reduce the hole length to non-standard lengths, allowing you to increase the intensity of your HHO flame.
[via Reddit]
[MacGyver] [Lou Wozniak] is in a project to build an internal combustion engine solely with hardware. What he sees above is his third attempt. Depending on your hardware store, you would have possibly ventured outside of what they’re promoting because [Lou] switched to gas, but the first two attempts were propelled through a propane torch fuel canister.
Unfortunately, it still doesn’t work. But the following demonstration makes us think it’s actually close. Time is tricky and that turns out to be the cause of the problems. Use lots of plumbing fixtures. On the right you can see the portions (including a jar of peanut butter) that make up your carburetor with a valve pointing upwards like a choke. The fuel and air aggregate travels down the hose to the cylinder and valve where it ignites. the ignition module on the black grille. Its cut-to-size plywood gear moves with the idler. He activates his makeshift spark plug by using a piece of wire to pull the blade switch.
We feel like he’s so close to getting this up and running. If you have any advice on where he might be going wrong [Lou] welcomes your input.
Continue reading “Building An Internal Combustion Engine From Hardware Store Parts” →